Hardwood floors are a beautiful asset to any home.  The only problem is that many people do not know how to correctly care for their hardwood floors and they end up looking grimy and dingy.  This is especially true in homes that are rented frequently and the tenants do not see m to care about the floors or just do not know how to take care of them.  Either way, if you have hardwood floors that need a good cleaning to restore their natural beauty, there are several actions you can take to bring your hardwood floors back to life.

Why Type of Finish Do Your Floors Have?

Before you go mopping away, you will want to determine the type of finish your floors have.  Newer floors are often surface-sealed with a urethane, polyurethane or polyacrylic sealant.  These floors are usually the easiest to clean as they are water-damage resistant.

Older floors are often penetrating seal treated or oil treated.  These seals soak into the wood and harden.  This type of floor is going to need additional treatments such as liquid or paste wax to keep them looking their best.

Some floors are lacquered, shellacked, varnished or simply left untreated.  These floors are not as resistant to water or wear and tear.  These floors will need to be treated the same way you would treat the penetrating-seal or oil-treated floors. 

To figure out what type of sealant you have on your floors, all you have to do is rub a finger across them.  If you see a smudge, then the floor has been treated with a penetrating seal, oil, varnish, lacquer or shellac, and then possibly waxed.

Hardwood Floor Do’s and Don’ts

There are several Do’s and Don’ts when it comes to hardwood floors and many you will want to follow for your own personal safety, not to mention the maintenance of the floor.

·         Never use oils, waxes or furniture sprays.  These products will quickly turn your floors into an ice-skating rink that can be dangerous to both you and your family and make life very hard on your pets. 

·         Do not use straight ammonia or abrasive cleaners on your floors, as you will lose your nice, shiny appearance.

·         Do use a product that is designed specifically for wood floors.  Or, use plain soap and water. 

·         Do be aware that if your floor has a warranty on it, there are some cleaners that will violate the warranty, so soap and water is the safest route to take.  When using soap, simply add a quarter cup of mild soap (dish-washing soap is good) or Murphy Oil Soap (doesn’t really contain oil) to your bucket of water.

·         Don’t rely on water alone or a vinegar-water solution.  Mopping with water alone will not do much to remove the dirt and vinegar may actually cause your floors to dull more quickly. 

·         Do sweep daily in high traffic areas and mop one to two times per week in these areas.

·         Do mop less frequently in less-trafficked areas.

·         Do remember that water is wood’s worst enemy, so use a damp mop instead of a soaking wet mop.  Even sealed floors are not completely protected against water.

Proper Mopping

When mopping, you will want to begin by dipping the mop in the cleaning solution and then wring the mop out completely.  Remember, a damp mop will do. When the water is dirty, mix a new bucket and continue mopping if need be.  When you are finished with the cleaning solution, rinse the floors by mopping with plain water.  Don’t be afraid to get down on your knees with a cloth if you need to. 

Wood Floor Problems

Scuff marks are almost inevitable when it comes to wood floors, but a little bit of baking soda on a damp cloth will help to clean them right off the floor.  Another problem is cracks.  Wood will naturally swell and shrink with the weather, so don’t get panicked.  The cracks will close up in the summer, but you can help them along by using a humidifier in the room and providing the atmosphere with a little moisture.  If the finish is beginning to look dull, try lightly sanding and recoat the floors with a sealant.  This should be done and will probably need to be done every five to seven years.

Energy Efficient Appliances

One tax credit you may receive is for purchasing energy-efficient appliances including clothes washers, dishwashers and refrigerators.  The credit that you can receive varies depending on the efficiency of the unit.  These appliances must have been manufactured in 2006 and 2007 to be eligible.

Replacement Windows

New windows in your home also count for a tax credit.  Exterior windows must meet 2000 IECC & Amendments.  You may be able to receive 10% of the cost of the exterior windows, not exceeding $200 total. 

Skylights must also meet IECC requirements and will account for the same credit, 10% of the cost not to exceed $200. 

Storm windows that meet IECC requirements are eligible for 10%$ of cost up to $200.

Storm doors that are used in combination with a wood door and is assigned a U-factor by the IECC is eligible for 10% of the cost up to $500.

Exterior doors, meeting IECC requirements, may receive 10% of cost not to exceed $500 total.

Roofs

Metal roofs that are energy star qualified are also eligible.  This tax credit may amount to 10% of the cost, not to exceed $500.

Insulation

Insulation meeting 2000 IECC requirements is qualified for 10% of cost, not to exceed $500 total.

Heating and Cooling Systems

If you install a new central AC that is an EER 12.5/SEER 15 split system or EER 12/SEER 14 package system, you may receive $300.  If you install an air source heat pump (HSPF 9/EER 13/SEER 15), you may receive $300.  You may receive $300 if you install a new geothermal heat pump that is either an EER 14.1 COP 3.3 closed loop, EER 16.2 COP 2.6 open loop or an EER 15 COP 3.5 direct expansion.  Gas, oil and propane water heaters with an energy factor of 0.08 are also eligible for $300.  Electric heat pump water heaters with an energy factor of 2.0 are also eligible for the $300 tax credit.   Gas, oil, propane furnaces or hot water boilers (AFUE 95) are eligible for $150. Finally, an advanced main air circulating fan that uses no more than 2% of furnace total energy use is eligible for a $50 tax credit.

Solar Energy Systems

There are also tax credits available for qualified solar water heating systems as well as photovoltaic systems.  The tax credit for these systems is 30% of the cost and they are not limited to the $500 home improvement cap that is placed on other tax credits.  These are capped at $2,000.

Fuel Cells

Another tax credit that is not limited to the $500 cap is fuel cells.  Consumers may receive up to 30% of the cost for qualified fuel cell and microturbine systems and place them in service between January 1, 2006 to December 31, 2007.  These are capped at $1,000 per kW of power that can be produced.

Tax Credit Cap

The maximum amount that is available for home improvements credit is $500.  This credit will apply to any improvements that you make to your primary residence after January 1, 2006 through December 31, 2007.  Most Energy Star products will be eligible for the tax credits, but you should discuss your home improvements with your tax accountant first.

Spot Cleaning

Once a spill occurs, you want to blot it up as soon as possible.  Always use clean, white paper towels or a hand towel to blot the stain.  Avoid rubbing as this only pushes the stain into the carpet making it even more difficult to remove.  There are several household supplies that can come in handy in an emergency spot cleaning.

·         Plain Club Soda: Plain club soda can be used to remove fresh stains.  Simply a pour a little on the spot and allow it to fizzle.  Blot it up thoroughly once done.

·         Detergent: If the stain has been around for awhile, mix two tablespoons of detergent, 3 tablespoons of vinegar and a quart of warm water.  Work the mix into the stain and blot dry.

·         Shaving Cream: Allow the shaving cream to foam on the spot and then clean up with a damp cloth and blot until dry.

After using these cleaning agents, lay a dry paper towel over the area and sit something heavy on top of it.  Check it in a few minutes and repeat with a dry towel.  This will allow the moisture to soak up out of the carpet, which will keep the carpet clean as moisture attracts dirt.  If a wet spot becomes dirty, you have a new spot to deal with.

Shampooing

About once a year you carpet can use a good deep cleaning.  People with children or messy pets may need to do this more often.  There are several methods available for you to do this yourself or you can hire a company to do it for you.  Many grocery stores rent out hot water shampooers, you may purchase a home shampooer or you may have a professional carpet cleaning company come to your home.

Before you shampoo, be sure to clean up any spots first and vacuum the room thoroughly.  It is always best to move all of the furniture out of the room if possible or move the furniture to one side of the room, clean that side, move it back when dry and do the other side of the room.  Allow each section to dry for 24 hours each. 

Many of the home machines are ideal if you’re carpet isn’t extremely dirty.  If they are, then you will want to seek out professional help.  These machines work with a reservoir for hot water and a reservoir for shampoo.  You will move across the floor just as if you were vacuuming it only you will be applying water and soap.  Once the carpet is damp, you will move back across it and soak up all of the dirty water.  Be sure you do not over wet the carpet, as you do not want to soak the padding or the floor beneath the carpet.

If you have nasty pet stains or stains that just won’t come out with home products, you’re best bet is to call a professional carpet cleaning company.  You should call a few to get estimates, as some will offer multiple room specials.  A clean carpet can really make you room look clean and smell great.  Plus, your toes will love the feeling of soft and clean carpet.

How to Install Hardwood Floors

If you’re looking for a way to add a little more value to your home or simply want to spruce up a room, hardwood floors are an excellent addition.  These floors will instantly lighten your room and will add a touch of style and class that you can’t just get from anywhere.  Hardwood floors can easily be installed on your own or you can have them installed by a commercial flooring company.

What Type of Wood Do You Want?

Oak floors are the most popular, but they come in two different styles and each have their own special touch when added to a room.  Red oak is perhaps the most common type of flooring and it is slight cheaper.  This wood, however, is softer and it also has a more open grain pattern that may show cracks during certain seasons.  This wood is darker and is what most people think of when they think of hardwood floors. 

White oak is another option you have.  White oak has a lighter appearance and will instantly add light to a room.  This wood can be finished with a natural coating that will enhance the wood’s natural color, or you may stain it. 

There are also several other types of woods and even colors that you may choose from.  Your options may depend on what is available in your area and you should do some shopping before you make your final decision.

Once you have your color chosen, you can decide whether you want to go with the natural wood that will need to be installed, sanded and finished or if you would like to go with a pre-finished hardwood flooring.  The slight advantage that the pre-finished wood has is that it is not as time consuming to install.  However, many people enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that they personally went through every step to achieve the beautiful hardwood floors that they desire.  This option is completely up to you and how much time you have for installation.

Setting the Base

All new flooring should be laid on a clean base that is structurally sound and level.  The base will depend on the type of flooring that you have.  If you have a concrete floor under your current carpet or flooring, then you should be okay and all you will need to do is clean it.  If you have a plywood subfloor, you may need to install new plywood.  You can also install new wood over the existing floor, but you may have to correct any irregularities in the floor.  If you do install new wood, then you also need to ensure that the transition from room to room is not an awkward one and that the new floor will not interfere with doors, closets, etc.

Begin this process by removing doors, shoe molding and baseboards.  Number your molding pieces so that you will remember where they go and they will be easier to reinstall when you are done with the new floor.  If you have concrete, you will need to lie ¾ inch exterior-grade plywood over the concrete to have something to nail into.  You will then nail 2-inch ring shank or cement coated nails every 6 inches along the edges and every twelve inches along intermediate joists.   You will also want to stagger the panels so that you avoid having four corners meeting in areas.  You should leave an 1/8 inch between panels and a ½ inch next to the walls so that the wood will be able to expand.  The same process will also work if you are installing new wood where old wood used to be.  You will want to install the subflooring over exposed joists, centering long edges over the joists with a tongue and groove edge.

Installing the New Hardwood Floor

Before you begin the installation process, it is recommended that the wood be allowed to acclimate to your home first.  Wood should be stacked inside the home for a few days so that it can adjust to the humidity level in the home. 

The floor will be installed perpendicular to the joists.  Mark the positions of the joists along the wall for a reference.  Next, you will install one layer of 15 pound asphalt felt.  This will help to minimize moisture and will also minimize squeaks.  Tack down the felt with a staple gun and overlap seems by 3 inches.  Measure the room at two or more points and establish a centerline.  Snap a chalk line parallel to the wall you will be starting on.  You will also want to snap a chalk line along the area where the supports of the floor are located.

The last chalk line you will want to snap is one that will indicate the edge of the first row where you will install flooring.  Snap one more line about ½ inch from the starting wall and parallel to the centerline.  This gap allows for expansion of the wood and will be covered by your baseboards.

Now that your lines are in place, you will want to select the longest or widest boards for the first row.  Near the wall you will want drill pilot holes for 1 ½ inch finishing nails.  These should be covered by your molding later.  Face nail the first row of wood through the plywood subflooring to the floor joists.  Use a nail set to recess the nails and avoid any marks from the hammer.  Blind nail this first row as well as the first two rows by hand.  Drill pilot holes at a forty-five degree angle at then ends and every 10 inches.  Fasten these boards with your finishing nails and set the nails with a nail set.

When you install each row after the second, you will want to move a short piece of wood along the edge of the wood with you and give it a sharp hit to tighten the rows against each other before you nail.  End joints should not be closer than 6 inches and should not line up over a joint in the subfloor.

If you are installing over a very large floor area, you should use a flooring nailer after you have installed the first three rows.  This nailer will slip onto the board’s tongue and you will drive the nails with the hit of a mallet.  This nailer can make this process go by a lot quicker and this tool can be rented from many hardware rental shops.

When you reach the last row, you will use a block and pry bar to wedge the last few boards into position.  Drill holes and face nail the boards so that the nails will be covered by base molding.  If you find that you have a different level floor from the wood to another room, you may install a reducer strip to help smooth the transition from room to room. 

Now you are ready to reinstall your baseboards and sand and finish the floor if necessary.  Finally, move the furniture back in.  Do expect to spend the next few hours admiring your new floor.

Staining your concrete surface is an excellent way to add style and drama to your otherwise drab concrete. Stained concrete can provide a home an instant facelift, not to mention protection. If you are looking to add a fresh look to your patio, driveway or other concrete surface, then staining may be just what you are looking for. Concrete may be dyed prior to pouring or it may be applied to concrete that is already established.

How a Concrete Stain Works

Many people tend to confuse painting and staining. Painting is simply a cover that is placed over a surface, while a stain is actually absorbed by the surface. Stains interact chemically with the concrete. Some products will attach to carbon ions and react with carbon dioxide in the air, which causes them to harden. This is one aspect type of stain that you will have to choose from. The other type of stain is a coloration method. With this stain, pigment is absorbed into the pores of the concrete and attaches to the concrete. Different types of texture, however, will have different pigmentation effects. For example, a steel troweled surface will not absorb pigment as readily as a wood-floated or broom finished concrete surface will.

Staining Prior to Pouring

If you have not yet poured the concrete, then you have some other options to consider. There are several types of powdered pigments available that will color the concrete before you pour. This material is worked into the surface of the concrete just after pouring. These products will colorize the concrete up to a dept of 1/8 inch or more and there are several color options to select from. These colorizing agents are made of fine silica, which also cause the concrete to be less porous and cause the concrete to retain the color longer. If you are working with a contractor, it is best to discuss your options here as well. Many contractors will often have a product that they already use and you will want to discuss the pros and cons of their product with them to ensure you get the look you want to achieve.

Surface Preparation

If you are staining an existent area of concrete, there are several steps to take. The first is to clean the surface and get it as pristine as possible. Begin by testing whether or not the concrete already has some type of sealant or curing agent on it. Pour a little bit of water on the area and watch to see if it absorbs. If the concrete does not absorb the water, then it may be sealed and this seal needs to be removed. This may be achieved through scraping, sanding, grinding or applying a stripping agent. Sanding is commonly used by installers as it also opens up the pores of the surface and will allow for better penetration. Once any sealant has been removed, you will then wash the area with water and a detergent and then vacuum with a good wet vacuum. The surface should be free of any residue, streaks or footprints, as these will show through once the area is stained.

There may be instances in which the concrete needs to be patched. This can be achieved through using a product that is acrylic based and is low-shrinking. These materials should accept the stain, but you must keep in mind that any patchwork is still going to show through once stained.

When to Stain

Each stain manufacturer will have a different time period for the stain to be applied. Some manufacturers suggest to wait 28 days after a new slab has been poured, while others will say 14 days. If you’re slab has already been in place for several years, then this does not apply to you

How to Stain

Before you begin the staining process, be sure to use masking tape to mark off any area that you do not want to stain. Acid stains are often nearly impossible to remove.

Stains are often applied by sprayers when done commercially. You may rent a sprayer to do your job or you may also do the staining by paintbrush. If you do rent a sprayer, be certain that it is rated for acid and does not have any metal parts. Acid will eat away at the metal and this may alter the color of your stain. Also, if you choose to spray it is suggested that you use spray tip with a circular pattern that sprays right to left and then left to right to achieve a uniform pattern. If you choose to use a paintbrush, be careful to minimize any brush marks as these may cause an undesirable effect.

Cleaning After Staining

After staining you will apply a sealant to the concrete, but before you can do this you need to clean the surface area again. This is because water-based sealants do not mix well with any residual acid that the concrete may have on its surface. Clean the surface with a mixture of water and baking soda. The baking soda will neutralize any acid that remains on the surface of the concrete. Add one tablespoon of baking soda per gallon of water and scrub with soft buffing pads or a scrub brush. Vacuum any remain mixture with a wet vacuum. Rinse the concrete until the water runs clear. Allow the area to dry for 1 or 2 days before you apply the sealant.

Sealing

The surface sealer should be acrylic based, as this will allow for moisture to escape the concrete. There are different sealers that can be used depending on the look that you want as well as the location of the concrete. There are typically three types of sealants used indoors and these include:

• Acrylics
• Urethanes
• Epoxies

Acrylics will give the concrete a wet and shiny look. These are often the least expensive and are easy to apply or reapply if needed. These sealers also require the most maintenance. Water-based epoxy sealers provide a clear finish and are non-porous. They do not allow trapped moisture to escape. Urethane sealers will provide an abrasive-resistant finish, but they do not apply well to concrete and should be applied over a water-based epoxy application as a second coat. Urethane sealers are the most expensive to reapply as well.

The end result should be a fabulous new floor and definitely something to be proud of. Staining concrete can have a dramatic effect on an area, whether it is indoors or out. Maintenance is easy as well. If the area is inside, you can use a regular mop to clean the floor. If outside, you have the peace of mind knowing that your concrete will be protected from the elements and you can just hose it down if it is a little dirty.

Your Consent:
Whenever you submit information via this site, you consent to the collection, use, and disclosure of that information in accordance with this Privacy Policy.

Information We Collect:
For each visitor to our Web site, our Web server automatically recognizes the consumer’s domain name or IP address, but not the e-mail address. Unless otherwise stated on our web site, we collect only the domain name or IP address of visitors to our Web page, the e-mail addresses of those who communicate with us via e-mail, the e-mail addresses of those who make postings on this site, aggregate information on what pages visitors access, user-specific information on what pages you access or visit, information volunteered by you such as surveys, polls and other information.

Personally identifiable information is may be requested when i) purchasing goods or services from our web site, ii) registering for special content like newsletters, or iii) contacting us.

This site may use and combine such passively collected anonymous information to provide better service to site visitors, customize the site based on your preferences, compile and analyze statistics and trends, and otherwise administer and improve the site for your use. We may at times combine personally identifiable information with passively collected information in order to personalize offers and the site for our users (for example, combined information may allow us to recommend products or features to you based on what you have liked in the past). For more information about cookies and other passive tracking methods discussed above, contact us via our contact form.

Use and Disclosure of Information:
Except as otherwise stated, we may use information collected via this site to improve the content of our site, to customize the site to your preferences, to communicate information to you (if you have requested it), for our marketing and research purposes, and for any other purpose specified. We may use personally identifiable information to contact you in relation to a transaction (e.g., we may telephone you to update you on the delivery status of an order for goods). In addition, we may make full use of all information acquired through this site that is not in personally identifiable form.

If you provide personally identifiable information to this site, we may combine such information with other actively collected information unless we specify otherwise at the point of collection. We also may disclose personally identifiable information you provide via this site to third parties.

The collection, use, and disclosure of information contemplated in this Privacy Policy may involve a transfer of the information to jurisdictions located outside your country of residence that may not have equivalent laws and rules regarding personally identifiable information. In these cases, you will be asked to consent to such transfers and disclosures in accordance with this Privacy Policy.

Public Areas:
Our site also has public areas. Please remember that any information you share in these areas becomes public, so you should be careful about what you disclose.

Children’s Guidelines:
This website is directed at adults, not children, and we do not seek to collect from children online contact information or distribution to third parties any personally identifiable information from children or entice children to divulge information to us.

Links to Other Web Sites:
This site contains links and references to other Web sites to which this Privacy Policy does not apply. We encourage you to read the Privacy Policy of every Web site you visit.

How to Contact Us:
If you have any questions, comments, requests, or concerns related to this Privacy Policy or the information practices of this site, please contact us.

Changes to This Privacy Policy:
If this Privacy Policy changes, the revised policy will be posted on this site. Please check back periodically, and especially before you provide any personally identifiable information.

Usage of this site is subject to the following terms and conditions:

• Statements and opinions expressed on this site are not necessarily those of Dew Point Productions, Inc (identified and should not be considered as fact. Dew Point Productions, Inc offers this site and all information contained herein without any warranty of any kind, express or implied, and is not liable for its accuracy, mistakes, errors or omissions of any kind, nor for any loss or damage caused by a user’s reliance on any information obtained from this site. Information contained on this site is not intended to replace professional advice.

• Dew Point Productions, Inc, its parents, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners, employees and independent contractors make no representation regarding the information and materials provided on this website. All information, software, products, services and/or links to other websites are provided “as is” without warranty of any kind. This includes implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. Under no circumstances shall Dew Point Productions, Inc be held liable for any direct, indirect, punitive, incidental, special, or consequential damages arising out of or connected in any way with the use of, or inability to use, any material on this site even if Dew Point Productions, Inc has been advised of the possibility of such damages.

• Dew Point Productions, Inc has the right to publish, edit, or reject any and all submissions to this site, including your name and email as provided by you, online. Dew Point Productions, Inc offers the information contained herein without warranty, express or implied, and accepts no responsibility for the accuracy of the material presented herein or any errors or omissions. Dew Point Productions, Inc expects its users to abide by common standards of decency. No commercial advertisements are allowed without the express permission of Dew Point Productions, Inc.

• As a user of this site, you understand that you alone are responsible for the contents of the messages you submit as well as the consequences of those messages. You agree that you will not use our site for illegal activities or to send any message or material that is unlawful, harmful, threatening, racist, abusive, defamatory, obscene, harassing, slanderous, invasive of another’s privacy or gives rise to civil liability or otherwise violates the standards described anywhere on our site. You further agree not to use our services for the purpose of sending SPAM, chain mail, mass solicitations, or other email annoyances. You also understand and agree that any material (including but not limited to images, text and/or information) you receive is the sole responsibility of the sender and that Dew Point Productions, Inc assumes no responsibility for what may be sent to you.

• By uploading files or data onto the site, or otherwise providing information on or through the site, you are granting Dew Point Productions, Inc a royalty-free, perpetual, non-exclusive, worldwide license to use, copy, adapt, transmit, publicly perform, display or distribute the submission, without limitation.

• Your use of this site constitutes your acceptance of these terms and conditions of use as well as our Privacy Policy and waiver of liability on the part of Dew Point Productions, Inc.se of this site constitutes your acceptance of these terms and conditions of use as well as our Privacy Policy and waiver of liability on the part of Dew Point Productions, Inc.

Before You Begin

Are you sure your ceiling contains asbestos?

Not all spray-on, textured ceilings contain asbestos. To know for sure, submit a small sample for laboratory analysis. Cost is minimal. Laboratories are listed in the yellow pages under “Asbestos - Consulting and Testing.” A list of local laboratories may also be obtained by contacting the Division of Air Quality at 536-4000. (Return to Table of Contents)

Use a spray bottle to thoroughly wet three or four small ceiling areas with water mixed with a few drops of liquid detergent. Using a putty knife, take a composite sample by carefully scraping about one square inch of spray-on from each wetted area into a zip-lock plastic bag. If the laboratory results are negative, meaning less than 1 percent asbestos was found in the sample, take two additional samples to confirm the analysis.

If you decide not to check for asbestos, assume the ceiling contains asbestos and treat it accordingly.

If so, are you sure you want to remove it?

Remember, asbestos is a problem only if fibers are released into the air. Asbestos-containing, spray-on ceilings that are in good repair and are not being disturbed will not release asbestos fibers. Hence, the safest, easiest and least expensive option may be to leave it alone. Sometimes it is possible to work around asbestos without removing it. For example, spray-on ceilings that are in good condition can usually be painted with a thin coat of latex paint (spraying with an airless sprayer is recommended). However, be aware that painting these ceilings may prevent you from safely removing them in the future. Do-it-yourself removal is highly dependant on your ability to thoroughly wet this material before disturbing it. Painting can seal the spray-on material, making it difficult or impossible to wet.

Words of Caution

The Utah Division of Air Quality assumes no liability or responsibility for damage, injuries, illness or related health problems arising from your performing an asbestos removal project. You assume all risks involved.

(Return to Table of Contents)

You are liable.

Your only legal options in having asbestos removed from your home are to hire a certified abatement contractor or to do the work yourself. The law prohibits you from hiring anyone other than a certified asbestos contractor to perform asbestos removal work. Family members and friends may participate legally, provided they do so on a voluntary, no-pay basis. Be advised that the removal procedures described in this publication are intended to help homeowners minimize health risks associated with “do-it-yourself” asbestos removals. However, it should be understood that removing asbestos from your home can be dangerous. Some release of asbestos fibers into the air is unavoidable and there are no known safe levels of asbestos exposure. Be aware that no set of instructions can address all possible situations and variables that a home owner may encounter in an asbestos removal project. In this publication, we have tried to address the more common and most important issues involved in removing spray-on ceilings.

Particularly challenging projects should not be undertaken by the home owner. If you are not confident in your ability to safely perform the asbestos removal, the Division of Air Quality recommends that you abandon the “do-it-yourself” approach and hire a certified asbestos abatement contractor.(Return to Table of Contents)

The work will be difficult.

It is important to note that even under the best of circumstances, home owner performed asbestos projects can be physically demanding and potentially dangerous.

• Breathing through a respirator is more difficult than normal breathing and places an additional stress on the heart and lungs. A physician should be consulted before anyone performs strenuous work while wearing a respirator.
• Protective clothing can be hot and uncomfortable.
• Work spaces become very humid due to the water used in wetting the asbestos.
• Eye protection often results in reduced visibility.
• Caution must be taken with wiring and electrical power because water is used to wet the asbestos.

The work may cause damage.

These procedures may result in damage to walls and ceilings. Duct tape can discolor wood paneling, tear wallpaper and remove paint and texture. Water may stain walls and damage floors. Using metal scrapers on wetted plasterboard ceilings may result in tearing of the plasterboard paper.

If your ceiling has been painted…

If your spray-on ceiling has been painted, you may not be able to penetrate the paint with water to thoroughly wet the asbestos-containing material prior to disturbance. Thorough wetting is critical for preventing the release of asbestos fibers during removal. Try one or more tests to determine if you can penetrate the paint layer to thoroughly wet the material prior to disturbance. Use a plastic spray bottle containing a teaspoon or less of liquid detergent (wetting agent) in water. Spray water over a few square inches of ceiling, allowing up to 15 to 20 minutes for the water to soak in. Re-spray several times during this period. Then scrape off the material carefully with a small putty knife, catching the debris on a piece of sheet plastic in your other hand. Examine the removed material carefully for wetness.Dispose of the debris by carefully wrapping it in the plastic, sealing it with duct tape and placing it in the garbage. If the removed material was not thoroughly wet, try increasing the number of spray applications, the amount of wetting agent used and times for soaking in, to determine the best way to achieve the maximum wetting of your spray-on material. If, after trying various spray procedures, you are unable to get water through the paint in order to saturate the spray-on material to the ceiling substrate, do not undertake this project. Leave the ceiling alone or hire a certified asbestos abatement contractor to do the work. If you remove the ceiling dry, you will contaminate your home with asbestos and expose yourself and your family to potentially high concentrations of airborne asbestos fibers. (Return to Table of Contents)

Removal Procedures

Basic Rules

• Worker Protection: During removal, you will need to protect yourself from breathing or spreading asbestos fibers by wearing an appropriate respirator, disposable coveralls, disposable gloves, and rubber boots.
• Wetting: Wetting is critical to asbestos fiber control. Before, during and after removal, asbestos materials should be thoroughly saturated with water in order to keep asbestos fibers out of the air. once removed, asbestos debris should be kept wet until packaged and sealed for disposal.
• Containment: You will need to contain your asbestos debris by constructing a plastic containment around the ceiling areas you wish to remove. This is accomplished by covering walls and floors within the project room or rooms to ensure all debris is captured and remains on plastic sheeting during removal.

Personnel and supplies

Workers

It is recommended that three workers perform the job.Two should perform the work and a third should be “standing by” outside the work area to provide water, tools and other supplies as needed while work is in progress. This will minimize the need for removal workers to remove disposable clothing and put on new for each exit and entrance to the work area.

Protective equipment and clothing

Before beginning your project, you will need to obtain the following items:

• Respirators: Half-face, dual cartridge respirators, each equipped with a pair of HEPA filters (color coded purple). Request from the vendor a fit test to ensure a proper fit and instruction on performing a check of the respirator seal prior to each use. Respirators provide little protection if they do not fit properly. Respirators must be worn continually by each person within the containment.

Note: Persons with beards cannot be adequately fitted with this type of respirator and should not work within the containment.

• Coveralls: Several pairs of disposable coveralls with built-in booties should be purchased. Oversized coveralls make it easier to move around. One pair will be needed for each entry into the containment area. Every time a worker leaves the containment area during a removal project, coveralls should be disposed of in a properly sealed asbestos waste bag. This will help ensure all asbestos debris remains on plastic.
• Rubber Boots: Laceless, pull-on rubber boots without fasteners will protect coverall booties so they do not wear through. Rubber boots can be washed off later or disposed of as contaminated debris.
• Eye protection: Each worker within the containment area should wear non-fogging goggles.
• Rubber gloves: Several pairs of durable, disposable rubber gloves should be purchased. Rubber gloves should be worn by each person in the containment area. Every time a worker leaves the containment area, these gloves should be disposed of in an asbestos disposal bag. A new pair of gloves should be worn with each re-entry into the containment area.

Tools and Supplies

• Tank sprayer(2-3 gallons): This will be your means of wetting spray-on ceiling materials.
• Liquid dish washing detergent: Mixed at one cup per five gallons of water for best wetting results.
• Wallboard taping or “putty” knives and a dust pan: The best sizes of knives for scraping have four to eight-inch blades. The dust pan is for catching the spray-on material as it is removed and placing it in the asbestos waste bag.
• Step ladder: A six foot or taller aluminum or fiberglass ladder should be used when hanging the containment and during removal. Chairs and shorter ladders are not recommended. Remember that you will be wearing goggles, coveralls and rubber boots which limit vision and mobility.
• Polyethylene plastic sheeting(poly): This will be used to create containment areas. You will need enough 2 or 3 mil sheeting to cover 1.5 times the area of the walls and enough 6 mil sheeting to cover 3 times the area of the floors.
• Asbestos waste disposal bags: These bags will be used for containing asbestos contaminated debris and materials. The bags should be sized 33 inches by 50 inches and made of 6 mil polyethylene. Each should be pre-printed with required asbestos warnings. Assume you will need at least four bags per 100 square feet of ceiling to be removed.
• Duct tape: Numerous rolls will be used in building the containment area and in sealing waste bags.
• Clean, disposable rags: A large supply should be on hand for assorted removal and clean-up purposes.
• Encapsulants: These could be latex primer paint or an approved latex asbestos sealing product. They will be used for sealing areas after the spray-on material has been removed.

Note: Asbestos-specific equipment and materials may be purchased from safety equipment vendors listed under “Safety Equipment and Clothing” in the Yellow Pages.

Prep Work

First things first

1. Post signs warning “drop-in” friends, family and other visitors of the work taking place.
2. Remove all furniture from the room(s) where the spray-on removal is to take place.
3. Turn off heating/air conditioning systems and seal the vents with poly and duct tape. If the vents are mounted on the ceiling, wait until the containment is constructed to remove the vent covers.
4. Turn off all electrical power to ceiling fixtures in the project area at the breaker box. Even though the light switch is turned off, there are often live wires at the light fixture.
5. If lighting is required to conduct the project, it should be wired to a circuit outside the removal area and protected with a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt (GFCI) outlet.

Build a containment area.

1. Throughout the area of the house where the spray-on ceiling is to be removed, cover the floors with 6 mil poly. Place the sheets so that they overlap room edges by about a foot. Run the extra foot of sheeting up the wall and tape the edges there securely. Make sure there is plenty of excess poly - do not pull tight - so that the poly will not pull away from the walls when you are working near the edge of the room. Tightly seal all seams between sheets of poly with duct tape. If spray-on removal is going to take place in areas that are joined by halls or spaces where no removal is to take place, lay a layer of 6 mil poly sheeting on the floor to create a path on which to walk between containment areas.
   
   
2. Hang 2 or 3 mil poly sheeting on the walls within approximately one inch of the ceiling, forming a tight seal with duct tape. Make sure the sheets overlap and extend to the floor. Seal all wall seams with duct tape. To minimize damage to wall paper, consider using slender finishing nails to secure a piece of molding to the top of the wall, and tape the poly wall sheets to the wood strip.
3. Lay a second layer of 6 mil poly sheeting on the floor. In larger rooms, install the second layer in pieces of 100-120 square feet. Lay the plastic in a loose, overlapping manner without using tape or adhesive.
4. Construct poly isolation walls in doorways or room openings, if necessary, to separate the work area from the rest of the house. Create an entrance/exit to the work area, by cutting a five to six foot vertical slit in a poly isolation wall and then taping a floor-length poly flap over the slit on the inside of the containment area.
5. Once you have completed the poly containment, make sure the entire area where removal is to take place is isolated with poly sheeting. The only exposed surface within the containment should be the ceiling and about an inch or less of the wall below the ceiling. This ensures that all asbestos material is contained during removal.
6. If there is a door to the outside within the containment area, make this your point of entry/exit from the work area. Open the door and seal the door way with 6 mil poly sheeting. Create an entrance/exit through the poly by cutting a vertical slit as described above and covering it on the inside with a poly flap. Then lay a sheet of 6 mil poly outside the door. At a minimum, have a water spray bottle, clean, wet rags and an asbestos waste disposal bag at this location. If there is no exit door to the outside within the containment, create an entrance/exit within the house, either through a door or through an isolation wall as described above. Create a secondary containment or air-lock at the entrance/exit by constructing a wooden frame approximately four feet by five feet at the base and six to seven feet high. Completely enclose the interior of the box with 2 or 3 mil poly on the sides and top and 6 mil poly on the floor. Make flap doors on the air-lock as described above and seal one side to the containment area. All entrance and exit to the containment should be through this air-lock. All contaminated equipment and clothing must be left within the air-lock. At a minimum, have a water spray bottle, clean, wet rags and an asbestos waste disposal bag at this location.
7. Windows may be opened for ventilation. However, take precautions to prevent the escape of visible emissions to the outside air. Construct and tape an oversized poly flap or canopy over the inside of each open window to ensure no debris passes through the windows.
8. Remove all ceiling mounted light fixtures, smoke alarms, etc. After removal, seal exposed wires with electrical tape. Be careful not to disturb the spray-on materials during these activities.

Put on protective clothing and equipment.

Those who will enter the containment area to do the work should put on disposable coveralls outside the containment area while standing on the entrance/exit poly or within the air-lock. They should then put on gloves, goggles and respirators equipped with HEPA filters. If the coveralls are equipped with a hood, be sure to put the respirator head straps on underneath the hood. Tape your gloves to your disposable coverall sleeves around the wrist to ensure your arms and wrists remain covered (be sure to leave a folded tab at the end of the duct tape around your wrist, without the tab, removal with gloved fingers is very difficult). Seal the top of the rubber boots with duct tape to keep out ceiling material as it falls.

Wet the ceiling.

If your spray-on ceiling was painted, use the wetting process determined to be successful in earlier tests. Apply the water plus wetting agent with a tank sprayer. However, if in the process described earlier, you were unable to saturate the spray-on material to the ceiling substrate, do not undertake this project. Leave the ceiling alone or hire an asbestos abatement contractor to do the work. If your spray-on ceiling was never painted, spray the ceiling with wetting agent and water using the tank sprayer. Spray the ceiling material several times with water and ensure the material is thoroughly wet before removal. Spray-on material is very porous and absorbs a lot of water. Thorough wetting will keep asbestos fibers out of the air. Wait 15 to 20 minutes for the water to thoroughly penetrate.

Note: If someone is not available outside the containment to refill sprayers, you may need a hose with automatic shut-off at the entrance to the enclosure to refill the tank sprayer(s).

Test for wetness.

Once inside the containment area, test for wetness by scraping off a few inches of ceiling material. If it is thoroughly wet to the plasterboard or other ceiling substrate, you are ready to begin removing. If the material is not thoroughly wet, re-apply water and allow time for it to soak in.Again, if you find you are unable to thoroughly wet the material, do not proceed! Use a certified asbestos abatement contractor to perform additional work.

Note: If you must leave the containment area during the project, wet down the protective clothing with the spray bottle. Clean off the rubber boots, goggles and respirator with clean wet rags. Remove the clothing while standing on the poly just outside the entry/exit or within the air-lock. Place the coveralls and gloves in a waste disposal bag. Remove the respirator only after equipment has been cleaned and clothing has been sealed in the waste bag. Then step off the poly or out of the air-lock. Upon returning, put on new coveralls and gloves.

Taking down the spray-on ceiling

Cushion ladder legs by wrapping them with rags or a similar material, thereby preventing them from penetrating the poly sheeting on the floor. Using four to eight-inch putty or wallboard taping knives, thoroughly scrape the spray-on material from the ceiling, catching the material as you scrape with the dust pan. Place the scraped material into an asbestos waste bag. Wipe any remaining residue off with clean wet rags. Turn the rags frequently so you are wiping with a clean surface. Otherwise, remaining asbestos material will be smeared around and not removed. If the ceiling beneath the spray-on was painted, the wet wiping is very effective. With unfinished sheet rock, wiping is helpful but is less effective. Do not try to rinse and re-use contaminated rags. Dispose of them in an asbestos waste disposal bag. Use clean rags to wipe the exposed portion of the walls between the poly sheeting and the ceiling. Keep the poly on the floors and walls wet at all times by periodically spraying them to prevent any debris from drying and becoming airborne.

Cleaning Up

Remove debris from the floor.

1. After you have removed all of the spray-on ceiling material in one room within the containment area, seal the asbestos waste bags containing the removed material and contaminated rags. Waste bags are sealed by gathering the top of the bag, twisting it, and wrapping with duct tape; and then folding the twisted, taped portion over, taping it again to form a goose neck.
2. Carefully fold and roll up the top layer of loose plastic sheets to contain fallen debris. Bag the folded poly, along with the debris it contains, into asbestos waste disposal bags.
3. Thoroughly wipe down all tools and ladders with clean, wet rags. Place the cleaned equipment on the poly sheet outside the entry/exit or within the air-lock. Dispose of rags as asbestos debris.
4. Before you remove any poly sheets that are taped to the walls and floor, encapsulate those ceiling areas from which spray-on material has been removed. Roll on or spray these areas with a latex primer or an approved latex asbestos encapsulant. In spite of your best efforts, some asbestos fibers will remain on your ceiling. These fibers will be encapsulated by the paint primer or other spray application.
5. Double bag the asbestos waste by placing each asbestos waste bag into another bag and sealing the second bag with a goose neck as above. Place the sealed bags outside the containment, being careful not to contaminate the outside of the bag.
   1. Spray poly walls and floors with water one last time, making sure any visible asbestos debris is thoroughly wet.
   2. Beginning at the point most distant from your containment entrance/exit, remove all poly sheeting. First, peel the poly off the walls and lower them onto the floor. Then carefully roll up the poly on the floor, being careful that all debris remains within the poly. Work backwards toward your exit. Stay on the poly flooring at all times during this process. In larger rooms it may be necessary to bag the wall poly separately to avoid making a bundle too large to bag.
   3. Double bag each roll of contaminated poly inside asbestos waste bags and seal with a goose neck as described above.

   Decontamination

   4. Make sure that you dismantle and bag the containment area in such a way that the last piece of poly upon which you are standing is the poly you placed on the ground outside the entrance/exit or within the air-lock.
   5. Thoroughly clean all equipment of all visible residue with clean, wet rags. Before storing equipment, it should be washed again outside with a garden hose.
   6. While standing on the last piece of poly sheeting, or within the air-lock, spray yourself (or each other) with water to wet down any asbestos debris/fibers on the outside of your respirator and disposable coveralls. Spray the walls of the air-lock.
   7. Remove boots. You may either thoroughly clean the boots with wet rags and set them aside or, if you do not wish to keep them, place them inside and asbestos waste bag.
   8. Thoroughly clean goggles and the outside of respirator (while wearing the respirator) with wet rags.
   9. If an air-lock was used within the house, step out onto the entrance/exit poly. Collapse the poly ceiling and walls as you did in the containment. Fold the air-lock poly and place it in an asbestos waste bag.
   10. While on the poly sheeting, remove your disposable gloves and coveralls by peeling them off and turning them inside out as they are removed. Step off the last poly sheet.
   11. Remove respirators and take out their filters. Discard the filters with other asbestos waste. Perform final cleaning of respirators, goggles and other equipment using clean, wet rags and place used rags in asbestos waste bag.
   12. Double bag remaining disposable items including remaining poly sheet by rolling from edges and placing in asbestos waste bag. Use wet rags for any future clean-up. Never attempt to vacuum or sweep up asbestos debris. Seal and double bag as outlined above.
   13. Take a shower.

Note: If your spray-on ceiling was applied as part of original construction, the ceiling was likely never finished for painting. Thus, even if you did no damage during the spray-on removal, you will likely need to refinish or re-texture the ceiling before painting. Under no circumstances should you sand ceilings after removal of spray-on material. This will result in asbestos fibers being released into the air.

Remove the poly containment.

Disposal

Asbestos waste from an asbestos project may be disposed of only at landfills approved by the Division of Air Quality to accept asbestos waste. The location and phone numbers of such sites may be obtained by calling 801-536-4000. All asbestos waste must be transported and disposed of in double sealed waste containers with the appropriate asbestos label. You must write your last name and address where the waste was generated on each container prior to removal from your home.

The asbestos waste must be transported in a manner that will not permit the release of asbestos fibers into the air. Asbestos debris should be transported in a covered vehicle.

Your home may be your most valuable financial asset. That’s why it’s important to be cautious when you hire someone to work on it. Home improvement and repair and maintenance contractors often advertise in newspapers, the Yellow Pages, and on the radio and TV. However, don’t consider an ad an indication of the quality of a contractor’s work. Your best bet is a reality check from those in the know: friends, neighbors, or co-workers who have had improvement work done. Get written estimates from several firms. Ask for explanations for price variations. Don’t automatically choose the lowest bidder.

Home Improvement Professionals

Depending on the size and complexity of your project, you may choose to work with a number of different professionals:

• General Contractors manage all aspects of your project, including hiring and supervising subcontractors, getting building permits, and scheduling inspections. They also work with architects and designers.
• Speciality Contractors install particular products, such as cabinets and bathroom fixtures.
• Architects design homes, additions, and major renovations. If your project includes structural changes, you may want to hire an architect who specializes in home remodeling.
• Designers have expertise in specific areas of the home, such as kitchens and baths.
• Design/Build Contractors provide one-stop service. They see your project through from start to finish. Some firms have architects on staff; others use certified designers.

Don’t Get Nailed

Not all contractors operate within the law. Here are some tip-offs to potential rip-offs. A less than reputable contractor:

• solicits door-to-door;
• offers you discounts for finding other customers;
• just happens to have materials left over from a previous job;
• only accepts cash payments;
• asks you to get the required building permits;
• does not list a business number in the local telephone directory;
• tells you your job will be a “demonstration;”
• pressures you for an immediate decision;
• offers exceptionally long guarantees;
• asks you to pay for the entire job up-front;
• suggests that you borrow money from a lender the contractor knows. If you’re not careful, you could lose your home through a home improvement loan scam.

Hiring a Contractor

Interview each contractor you’re considering. Here are some questions to ask.

• How long have you been in business? Look for a well-established company and check it out with consumer protection officials. They can tell you if there are unresolved consumer complaints on file. One caveat: No record of complaints against a particular contractor doesn’t necessarily mean no previous consumer problems. It may be that problems exist, but have not yet been reported, or that the contractor is doing business under several different names.
• Are you licensed and registered with the state? While most states license electrical and plumbing contractors, only 36 states have some type of licensing and registration statutes affecting contractors, remodelers, and/or specialty contractors. The licensing can range from simple registration to a detailed qualification process. Also, the licensing requirements in one locality may be different from the requirements in the rest of the state. Check with your local building department or consumer protection agency to find out about licensing requirements in your area. If your state has licensing laws, ask to see the contractor’s license. Make sure it’s current.
• How many projects like mine have you completed in the last year? Ask for a list. This will help you determine how familiar the contractor is with your type of project.
• Will my project require a permit? Most states and localities require permits for building projects, even for simple jobs like decks. A competent contractor will get all the necessary permits before starting work on your project. Be suspicious if the contractor asks you to get the permit(s). It could mean that the contractor is not licensed or registered, as required by your state or locality.
• May I have a list of references? The contractor should be able to give you the names, addresses, and phone numbers of at least three clients who have projects similar to yours. Ask each how long ago the project was completed and if you can see it. Also, tell the contractor that you’d like to visit jobs in progress.
• Will you be using subcontractors on this project? If yes, ask to meet them, and make sure they have current insurance coverage and licenses, if required. Also ask them if they were paid on time by this contractor. A “mechanic’s lien” could be placed on your home if your contractor fails to pay the subcontractors and suppliers on your project. That means the subcontractors and suppliers could go to court to force you to sell your home to satisfy their unpaid bills from your project. Protect yourself by asking the contractor, and every subcontractor and supplier, for a lien release or lien waiver.
• What types of insurance do you carry? Contractors should have personal liability, worker’s compensation, and property damage coverage. Ask for copies of insurance certificates, and make sure they’re current. Avoid doing business with contractors who don’t carry the appropriate insurance. Otherwise, you’ll be held liable for any injuries and damages that occur during the project.

Checking References

Talk with some of the remodeler’s former customers. They can help you decide if a particular contractor is right for you. You may want to ask:

• Can I visit your home to see the completed job?
• Were you satisfied with the project? Was it completed on time?
• Did the contractor keep you informed about the status of the project, and any problems along the way?
• Were there unexpected costs? If so, what were they?
• Did workers show up on time? Did they clean up after finishing the job?
• Would you recommend the contractor?
• Would you use the contractor again?

Understanding Your Payment Options

You have several payment options for most home improvement and maintenance and repair projects. For example, you can get your own loan or ask the contractor to arrange financing for larger projects. For smaller projects, you may want to pay by check or credit card. Avoid paying cash. Whatever option you choose, be sure you have a reasonable payment schedule and a fair interest rate. Here are some additional tips:

• Try to limit your down payment. Some state laws limit the amount of money a contractor can request as a down payment. Contact your state or local consumer agency to find out what the law is in your area.
• Try to make payments during the project contingent upon completion of a defined amount of work. This way, if the work is not proceeding according to schedule, the payments also are delayed.
• Don’t make the final payment or sign an affidavit of final release until you are satisfied with the work and know that the subcontractors and suppliers have been paid. Lien laws in your state may allow subcontractors and/or suppliers to file a mechanic’s lien against your home to satisfy their unpaid bills. Contact your local consumer agency for an explanation of lien laws where you live.
• Some state or local laws limit the amount by which the final bill can exceed the estimate, unless you have approved the increase. Check with your local consumer agency.
• If you have a problem with merchandise or services that you charged to a credit card, and you have made a good faith effort to work out the problem with the seller, you have the right to withhold from the card issuer payment for the merchandise or services. You can withhold payment up to the amount of credit outstanding for the purchase, plus any finance or related charges.

The “Home Improvement” Loan Scam

A contractor calls or knocks on your door and offers to install a new roof or remodel your kitchen at a price that sounds reasonable. You tell him you’re interested, but can’t afford it. He tells you it’s no problem — he can arrange financing through a lender he knows. You agree to the project, and the contractor begins work. At some point after the contractor begins, you are asked to sign a lot of papers. The papers may be blank or the lender may rush you to sign before you have time to read what you’ve been given to sign. You sign the papers. Later, you realize that the papers you signed are a home equity loan. The interest rate, points and fees seem very high. To make matters worse, the work on your home isn’t done right or hasn’t been completed, and the contractor, who may have been paid by the lender, has little interest in completing the work to your satisfaction.

You can protect yourself from inappropriate lending practices. Here’s how.

Don’t:

• Agree to a home equity loan if you don’t have enough money to make the monthly payments.
• Sign any document you haven’t read or any document that has blank spaces to be filled in after you sign.
• Let anyone pressure you into signing any document.
• Deed your property to anyone. First consult an attorney, a knowledgeable family member, or someone else you trust.
• Agree to financing through your contractor without shopping around and comparing loan terms.

Getting a Written Contract

Contract requirements vary by state. Even if your state does not require a written agreement, ask for one. A contract spells out the who, what, where, when and cost of your project. The agreement should be clear, concise and complete. Before you sign a contract, make sure it contains:

• The contractor’s name, address, phone, and license number, if required.
• The payment schedule for the contractor, subcontractors and suppliers.
• An estimated start and completion date.
• The contractor’s obligation to obtain all necessary permits.
• How change orders will be handled. A change order — common on most remodeling jobs — is a written authorization to the contractor to make a change or addition to the work described in the original contract. It could affect the project’s cost and schedule. Remodelers often require payment for change orders before work begins.
• A detailed list of all materials including color, model, size, brand name, and product.
• Warranties covering materials and workmanship. The names and addresses of the parties honoring the warranties — contractor, distributor or manufacturer — must be identified. The length of the warranty period and any limitations also should be spelled out.
• What the contractor will and will not do. For example, is site clean-up and trash hauling included in the price? Ask for a “broom clause.” It makes the contractor responsible for all clean-up work, including spills and stains.
• Oral promises also should be added to the written contract.
• A written statement of your right to cancel the contract within three business days if you signed it in your home or at a location other than the seller’s permanent place of business. During the sales transaction, the salesperson (contractor) must give you two copies of a cancellation form (one to keep and one to send back to the company) and a copy of your contract or receipt. The contract or receipt must be dated, show the name and address of the seller, and explain your right to cancel.

Keeping Records

Keep all paperwork related to your project in one place. This includes copies of the contract, change orders and correspondence with your home improvement professionals. Keep a log or journal of all phone calls, conversations and activities. You also might want to take photographs as the job progresses. These records are especially important if you have problems with your project — during or after construction.

Completing the Job: A Checklist

Before you sign off and make the final payment, use this checklist to make sure the job is complete. Check that:

• All work meets the standards spelled out in the contract.
• You have written warranties for materials and workmanship.
• You have proof that all subcontractors and suppliers have been paid.
• The job site has been cleaned up and cleared of excess materials, tools and equipment.
• You have inspected and approved the completed work.

Where to Complain

If you have a problem with your home improvement project, first try to resolve it with the contractor. Many disputes can be resolved at this level. Follow any phone conversations with a letter you send by certified mail. Request a return receipt. That’s your proof that the company received your letter. Keep a copy for your files.

If you can’t get satisfaction, consider contacting the following organizations for further information and help:

• State and local consumer protection offices.
• Your state or local Builders Association and/or Remodelors Council.
• Your local Better Business Bureau.
• Action line and consumer reporters. Check with your local newspaper, TV, and radio stations for contacts.
• Local dispute resolution programs.

Mold growth problems can adversely affect many homeowners. Homeowners who act quickly and appropriately can prevent or correct conditions that may cause mold growth. The following information will help protect your investment in your home and may prevent the possibility of health risks due to mold exposure.

If you are a renter, you should contact your landlord or property manager immediately when you have a maintenance need related to water damage.

What Are Molds?

Molds are microscopic organisms commonly found both indoors and outdoors. Molds, along with mushrooms and yeast, are known scientifically as fungi. Their purpose in nature is to break down dead material and recycle nutrients in the environment. For molds to grow and reproduce, they need a food source - any organic material, such as leaves, wood, paper, or dirt - and moisture. Since molds grow by “eating” the organic material, they gradually destroy whatever they are feeding on. Mold growth on surfaces can often be seen as a colored spot, frequently green, gray, brown, black or white. It commonly appears as a powdery, fuzzy, or hair-like material. Actively growing molds typically produce odors, sometimes described as earthy or moldy, or like mildew, old dirty socks, or ammonia. Molds release thousands of microscopic spores, which are lightweight, easily airborne and carried by air currents to surrounding areas. The spores must have both food and moisture to actually start growing, similar to plant seeds.

Return to Contents

Why are Molds a Concern?

Damage to the Home

It is common to find mold spores in the air inside homes, and on most surfaces including clothes, walls, and furniture. Most of the time mold spores found indoors come from outdoor sources. Routine cleaning of your home and furnishings helps keep these levels low. Cleaning small areas of visible mold, such as mold that may occur around your shower, is necessary to prevent unsanitary conditions.

The level of concern greatly increases when there are large amounts of active mold growth in your home. Large-scale mold problems are most likely to occur when there has been an on-going water leak, a flood, or very high levels of humidity in the home. Indoor mold growth may cause very high levels of airborne mold spores, which, in turn, may cause the spread of mold growth from the original source to other areas of the home where high moisture levels exist. Extensive mold growth can damage your home and belongings, such as carpets, sofas and cabinets. In time, unchecked mold growth can cause damage to the structural elements in your home. While there is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores in the indoor environment, keeping your home clean and dry can prevent extensive mold growth and its related damage.

Return to Contents

Health Effects

The vast majority of people are exposed to small amounts of mold or their spores on a daily basis without evident harm. However, mold growing inside a home is an unsanitary condition that may present potential health risks to occupants. Therefore, it is always best to identify and correct high moisture conditions quickly before mold grows and possible health problems develop.

Potential health effects produced by molds may include allergic, irritating, or toxigenic effects, and rarely, infection. Allergic reactions are generally the most common health effect. Typical symptoms (alone or in combination) reported by people living in moldy homes include:

• respiratory problems, such as wheezing, difficulty breathing, and shortness of breath
• sneezing and/or nasal congestion
• eye irritation (itching, burning, watery, or reddened eyes)
• coughing or throat irritation
• skin rashes or irritation
• headaches
• fatigue

The potential health effects depend on the amounts and types of mold present, the length and frequency of exposure, and the sensitivity and health condition of exposed individuals. While many people seldom experience ill effects from mold exposures, some may develop very serious illnesses. Some persons exposed to mold or mold spores may become sensitized and develop allergies to the mold or other health problems. Even “dead” mold (including spores and pieces of mold) may still cause allergy, irritation, or toxigenic reactions. Thus, killing mold without removing the residue may still be a health concern. Complete removal and thorough cleanup of mold is the safest solution.

Individuals at greater risk who may experience more severe symptoms or become ill more rapidly than others include:

• individuals with existing respiratory conditions, such as allergies, asthma, or chemical sensitivities
• individuals with weakened immune systems due to conditions such as HIV infection or cancer treatment
• infants and young children
• the elderly

Anyone with a health problem they believe may be due to mold exposure should consult a medical professional.

Return to Contents

How Can I Protect My Home From Mold?

Since you cannot remove all food sources for molds, it is important as a homeowner to take sensible precautions to prevent moisture from creating a breeding ground for mold.

Moisture Control

• Maintain levels of humidity below 60% (preferably between 30% and 50%) by
  • venting bathrooms, dryers and other moisture-generating sources to the outside
  • avoiding blockage of air conditioning vents
  • using air conditioners and de-humidifiers
  • increasing ventilation by installing additional crawlspace and attic vents, opening windows or installing an air-to-air heat exchanger
  • using exhaust fans when cooking, dishwashing and cleaning
  • avoiding the use of unvented heaters or high heat in confined areas
  • setting the air conditioning thermostat to “auto” to prevent circulation of humid air.
• Add insulation to reduce the potential for condensation on cold surfaces (windows, piping, exterior walls, roof or floors).
• Consider using moisture sensors that sound an audible alarm when a leak occurs.

Return to Contents

Inspection

Inspect your home regularly for the indications and sources of indoor moisture. Establish a maintenance schedule to check the following sources of water leaks on a regular basis. Contact a maintenance or service company with any questions or concerns.

• Hot Water Heaters - Over time, these appliances may rust or develop cracks, and the resulting leaks can be very costly. Check your water heater for rust and deterioration every year. Check the drain pan for water and ensure that the drain line for the overflow pan is not clogged. Drain and clean the water heater as recommended by the manufacturer.
• A/C Drain Lines - Damage can occur when the line that drains condensation from the evaporator coils becomes clogged and water overflows from the drip pan. To prevent this, periodically check the drip pan for water and consider an annual inspection or service call to reduce the buildup of algae and mold in the drain line.
• Appliance Hoses - Broken hoses are among the most common causes of water damage. Regularly inspect hoses and hose fittings on washing machines, icemakers and dishwashers for kinks, cracks, bulges or evidence of deterioration. Replace standard rubber washing machine hoses every two to five years, or more frequently if they are showing signs of wear. Consider using steel-reinforced hoses for longer life.
• Showers, Tubs, Sinks and Toilets - Water that leaks from around bathtubs, showers, sinks and toilets can cause extensive damage because the leak is often hidden from view. To prevent leaks, make sure you have a continuous watertight seal of caulk around the edges of sinks, toilets, tubs and shower stalls. Cracks or mold on the caulk or on the grout at tiles on walls or shower floors may indicate that you do not have a watertight seal. Remove all caulk or grout, clean and dry the surface thoroughly, and apply fresh caulk. Do not apply new caulk or grout on top of the old materials.
• Visible Piping - Routinely check piping under cabinets and sinks for leaks, rust and evidence of deterioration.
• Waste/Garbage Disposal System - Routinely check for cracking or other sources of leaks in the waste disposal system.
• Caulking around Windows, Doors, Penetrations and Cracks - Windows and doors should have a continuous bead of caulk sealing them to the exterior surface of the home. Penetrations of the exterior walls by pipes, electrical conduit, phone or cable lines, and exhaust ducts should also be caulked. Cracks or mold on the caulk may indicate that you do not have a watertight seal. Remove all caulk, clean and dry the surface thoroughly, and apply fresh caulk. Do not apply new caulk on top of the old caulk.
• Attic and Ceilings - Routinely check for wet insulation and water stains.
• Wallpaper - Routinely check for bubbling and/or peeling, as well as pink or black stains.
• Roofs - Keep roofs free of debris that can damage roofing material and allow water to seep in. Trim tree branches to prevent them from rubbing and damaging the roof. Promptly repair missing or damaged shingles. Properly seal any cracks around chimneys, skylights and vents. Check metal flashing for holes, cracks or other damage. Replace flashing or use silicon caulk to seal any openings.
• Landscape - Yards should slope away from the house to prevent puddling near the foundation or under pier and beam houses.
• Sprinklers and Irrigation Systems - Do not allow sprinklers or sprinkler heads to soak the exterior of the home.
• Check for evidence of water stains or odors, particularly after rains, on areas that could get wet.

Return to Contents

Other Precautions

• Water Valve - Make sure everyone in the household knows where the main valve is located and how to turn the water off.
• Rain Gutters and Downspouts - Direct rainwater away from your home. Keep gutters clear and make sure downspouts are long enough to effectively carry water away from your foundation. Gutters that are filled with leaves and other debris allow water to back up on the roof, which can result in water damage to eaves and roofing material.
• Insulate Pipes and Outside Faucets - Minimize the potential for water damage from frozen, broken pipes by insulating supply lines (in attic, crawlspaces and exterior walls), protecting exposed outdoor faucets, sealing gaps in exterior walls and maintaining adequate heat in your home.
• Sump Pump - The sump pump is the first line of defense in preventing water seepage into basements. Periodically check the sump and remove any debris that could clog the pump. Consider installing a battery-powered backup to protect your basement during power outages.
• Don’t block weep holes - Weep holes are openings at the foundation level of a brick wall that allow moisture to escape from behind the wall. Do not close or block these openings.
• Monitor Utility Bills - An abnormally high water bill could signal a water leak.
• Before You Travel - Turn the water off at the main valve or at major appliances. While you are away, consider leaving a house key and contact information with a neighbor or trusted friend and ask the person to check the inside and outside of your home periodically while you are away.

Return to Contents

Prevention

• Purchase paint with EPA-approved mold inhibitors.
• Clean bathrooms often with mold killing products and keep surfaces dry.
• Do not carpet bathrooms, basements, kitchens or other areas prone to collect moisture.
• Repair damages that could lead to water intrusion promptly and properly.
• Ensure that the home has adequate ventilation, including exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathrooms.

Return to Contents

What Do I Do If a Leak Occurs?

Whether or not the water damage may be covered by your insurance policy, it is important to act quickly to prevent further damage to your home.

• Immediately stop the source of leak or flooding.
• Remove excess water with mops or a wet vacuum. If the damage is significant, consider contacting a water extraction company for immediate action.
• Whenever possible, move wet items to a secure, dry and well-ventilated area or outside to expedite drying.
• Protect repairable and undamaged items from further damage.
• Move rugs and pull up areas of wet carpet as soon as possible.
• Increase circulation in and around wet areas by opening closet and cabinet doors, moving furniture away from walls and running fans.
• If necessary, remove wallboard and flooring materials to dry out those areas.
• Don’t throw away removed or damaged materials until instructed by your insurance company.
• Dry any damp or wet building materials and furnishings within 24-48 hours.
• Keep all receipts, photos and other relevant documents.
• Contact your insurance company, if applicable.

NOTE: The sooner the affected areas dry out and the source of the leak is repaired, the better your chances of minimizing damage to your property. If the water cannot be removed and the area dried promptly and efficiently, consider contacting a water extraction company for immediate action.

Return to Contents

Potential Signs of Mold Growth

• Unexplained discoloration on any surface
• Musty odor
• Dark spots on or around vents
• Water stains anywhere
• Peeling or curling of vinyl floors or wallpaper